We left Hanoi at around 8:00 a.m. on a crowded tour bus to see and experience one of South East Asia’s greatest natural wonders – Halong Bay, Vietnam. People often claim it’s a magical, “must see” site in Vietnam. Well, to be frank, it isn’t – it’s a tourist trap. Nevertheless, I did not travel half way around the world to miss my chance to see this magnificent, albeit overdeveloped natural wonder. So, I decided to try to make the most of it.
While planning our trip to Vietnam, I read many reviews and watched countless travel vlogs to help avoid Halong Bay’s tourist trap vibe. The honest bloggers offered numerous complaints that the Bay is filthy and filled with trash. Many people said to avoid it – calling the experience a disappointing waste of time. They described Halong Bay as Vietnam’s largest over commercialized tragedy of tourists, souvenir hawkers, and pollution. Despite the surprisingly large number of criticisms, I absolutely had to see it. So, I opted for a single day tour instead of an overnight or longer stay. It was the right decision.
Two Hour Bus Trip
The two hour trip to Halong Bay was just okay. Our full-size bus was filled with young, noisy tourists from all over the world. The trip was hardly relaxing or restful. The guide rambled on and on about nonsense that had no relevance to Halong Bay or Vietnam in general. People talked the entire time. There was also an obligatory 45 minute “rest stop” at an overpriced souvenir shop selling night market junk and fake designer goods at 10x the usual price. It was a prelude of things to come.
Crowds of tourists at Luon Cave – Halong Bay.
We arrived at the cruise terminal at around 11:00 a.m. After a brief delay, we boarded our boat and were served a seafood lunch. The food was pretty good. Drinks, of course, were not included. They were, nevertheless, affordable with a beer costing VD50,000 (about $2) and sodas at VD30,000 (about $1.50). Lunch consisted of fish, shrimp, chicken, Vietnamese noodles, and a salad with fruit and small bites for dessert.
We cruised for about an hour before making our first stop. After lunch, I led Evan topside to enjoy the view and snap some photographs. I recommend taking advantage of these opportunities along the way to capture a few moments admiring the beautiful scenery. It gives you a glimpse of the tour you hoped to experience – quiet and without noisy crowds.
Evan maneuvers a sampan at Luon Cave.
Ti Top Island
After a bout an hour cruise around the bay, our first stop was a 45 minute visit to Ti Top Island. The island is named for Soviet cosmonaut Gherman Titov, who visited Halong Bay with President Ho Chi Minh in 1962. As expected, it was packed with boats and crowded with hundreds of other tourists. The island offers a few activities to enjoy during your brief 45 minute stay. You can swim at the beach, have a few drinks and a snack at the bar, or climb 450 steps to the peak to enjoy a breathtaking view of Halong Bay from 360 feet above the water. Evan and I opted for the climb and, despite the large crowd, enjoyed a few moments at the top. The view is magical and worth the effort.
View from Ti Top Island.
Luon Cave
After everyone in our group was accounted for, our boat cast off and set a course for a short ten minute trip to Luon Cave. This is where one may choose to see the cave and lagoon by sampan or kayak. Along the way, we were given the option to see more of the area by speedboat for an extra VD250,000 ($10) per person. Even if you choose this add-on, you will still be able to kayak or sampan around Luon Cave. We took the speedboat tour, and it was worth the extra charge. We got to see more of the Bay, and enjoyed being tossed around as the coxswain zig zagged along the route. When we returned, we also enjoyed seeing the water cave by sampan.
Keep in mind, that this is another crowded stop with hundreds of other tourists clamoring to snap selfies and enjoy themselves. The speedboat gives you an opportunity for a brief escape from the crowds.
Evan and I at Luon Cave.
Sung Sot Cave
The last stop is about a 15 minute ride from Luon Cave to Bo Hon Island to explore Sung Sot Cave. Also referred to as Surprise Cave, this massive cavern sits inside a limestone karst is the largest cave in Halong Bay. It covers an area of about 10,000 sq.m. and sits at about 25 m. above sea level. Once docked, you will join a long line of other tour groups making their way through the cave. It is an impressive site despite the crowds, and you will marvel at the chamber’s high ceilings and beautiful stone formations. Evan and I enjoyed it, and there were many opportunities to stop and take photographs along the way.
Rock formations in Sung Sot Cave.
Final Thoughts on Halong Bay, Vietnam
Overall, we weren’t too disappointed with our trip to Halong Bay. One day, however, is certainly enough time to admire its soaring karsts and emerald green water. I’m grateful for the opportunity to see Halong Bay, Vietnam. While the tour isn’t the magical experience one hopes to enjoy, it is worth the hassle of a day trip. I particularly enjoyed seeing the bay from the deck as we cruised around the towering limestone karsts. I also thought the speedboat was fun, and the view from the peak of Ti Top Island was worth the crowded climb.
Certainly, the best way to enjoy Halong Bay is to lower your expectations and anticipate the annoyances of a crowded tourist attraction. Halong Bay is in no way the magical, romantic experience one hopes to see. However, it can be a worthwhile and somewhat enjoyable experience if you filter out the crowds and kitsch. My favorite part of the tour was sunset on our return trip to the terminal.
Sunset on Halong Bay.
I am happy to report that the Vietnamese government is finally making an effort to clean the trash out of the Bay. They also prohibit plastic bottles from tour boats, which seems to help mitigate floating debris.
