Evan and I were fortunate to visit the infamous Train Street on our recent trip to Hanoi, Vietnam.
Unfortunately, the Vietnamese government recently placed the area off limits to tourists. Crowds lining the tracks to take selfies and see the passing trains created a safety hazard. After numerous incidents, they closed the area at the expense of the coffeeshop owners who make a living from curious tourists. Police officers stand guard at gate blocking access to the tracks, and they turn foreigners away who try to enter. If you’re lucky, you will encounter a coffee shop owner who will quietly escort you through an alleyway to one of their shops.
I read about the closure before we left for our trip. Nevertheless, I had to give it a shot since it was close to our Old Quarter hotel.
Thankfully, Evan and I were very fortunate. Upon exiting our taxi, we were immediately whisked away to a track-side coffee shop. The shop owner seated us, encouraged us to be quiet, and stay out of the guard’s view. We then ordered some delicious Vietnamese egg coffees while we sat waiting patiently for the train to pass. We waited for about an hour. Sitting by the tracks was a great way to relax, and it was fun watching the shop owners sneaking around and hushing people for being too loud or stepping on the tracks. Watching the train pass by just a few feet from where we sat was an absolute delight, and one of the most memorable experiences from our trip to Hanoi. I hope you get to enjoy a visit to the infamous Train Street on your visit to Hanoi, Vietnam.
Yep, we did this last year. The attempt to shut down access isn’t really genuine and is only half hearted. It’s easy to find someone who is touting for the cafes and then to find a seat by the track. The guards know everyone is in there waiting for the train and turn a blind eye – in fact, the cafes’ touts don’t try and conceal what they’re doing, even from the guards. it’s all a bit of a show to restrict numbers and, as you say, minimise the chance of accident, but it’s all definitely still open. The only time the guards become alert is when the train is approaching, so the cafe owners make sure your seat is a few feet back from the track and that nobody stands up in those last few moments. But it’s true to say that Train Street isn’t as “closed” as the internet would have us believe – those numerous cafes are all still thriving, which is proof in itself! Great experience though, isn’t it.
It was a great experience and I liked that my son and I were able to see it without a huge crowd. We tried to go back on a Saturday in the afternoon and a guard stopped a shopkeeper from taking us back to his cafe. Seems like they may be trying to limit numbers of people or there is a kickback expected. I have heard they let tour groups through to the coffee shops.
Also, I love your blog btw!